8 DINING IN THE TIGRIS

River from Town 1 - 8 DINING IN THE TIGRIS

Tigris Cliffs - 8 DINING IN THE TIGRIS

In Town Best - 8 DINING IN THE TIGRIS

Castle Power - 8 DINING IN THE TIGRIS

Bridge Entrance 300x176 - 8 DINING IN THE TIGRIS

TV Zigzag Hasankeyf 1 - 8 DINING IN THE TIGRIS

Buket and I wandered as much as possible in the time before sunset. I drew our grave, kind, fifteen-year-old guide, Erkan. His portrait has hung on my wall ever since. I saw him then and still do as the face of Hasankeyf.

TV Drawing Erkan 225x300 - 8 DINING IN THE TIGRIS
Drawing Erkan, our guide.  Erkan at 15  ©2007 TriciVenola

19Erkan at 15 72 short 137x300 - 8 DINING IN THE TIGRIS

Three young men, students from Izmir, held still on the edge of the castle for portraits, staring down into the vista of caves and lantern light. “We read Atlas,” they said, “and so we travel Turkey this summer and learn our history.”

Hope Boys 300x185 - 8 DINING IN THE TIGRIS

10Hope Hasankeyf72 - 8 DINING IN THE TIGRIS
Hope & Hasankeyf ©2007 TriciVenola

 Buket and I climbed down the slippery stones from the top of the Byzantine clifftop castle to dinner on the beach below.

Down Into Town 1 - 8 DINING IN THE TIGRIS

Dinner was river trout barbecued and served at tables set up in the shallows. A jolly crowd sat at a tilting table with our feet in the Tigris, eating the fish caught in the river and throwing the bones back in to repay the river. Girls in trailing headresses waded out into the rushing water, legs glowing in the gloom.

17Dinner in the Tigris72 - 8 DINING IN THE TIGRIS
Dining in the Tigris ©2007 TriciVenola

We were going to sleep on railed platforms set up in the river. I hiked across the rocky beach toward the vast sheer cliff with the zigzag staircase and the castle on top, to use the pay restroom set up in a cave and manned all night by two hardy kids, when I saw a jeweled archway in the cliff…

Castle Base - 8 DINING IN THE TIGRIS

Rocking the Cradle of Civilization in Hasankeyf: NEXT: 9 OPEN SESAME

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