SO HOW OLD IS IT, ANYWAY?
This post was a real bitch to research. Each successive layer of information contradicts the last. As near as I can figure, here’s a rough timeline for our busted pillar.
318 Synagogue begun.
379 Rebuilt Synagogue unfinished but open.
Emperor Theodosius criticized by the Bishop of Milan, St Ambrosius, for allowing “A synagogue in the heart of the Queen of Cites”
395 Synagogue burned. Repaired, but when?
450-457 Synagogue converted into Church by Theodosius II at insistence of Pulcheria. Consecrated: Theotokos in Chalkoprateia
476 Theotokos damaged in great fire.
484 Theotokos repaired by Empress Verina. Emperor Zeno took some credit.
532 Nika Rebellion burned Hagia Sophia. Theotokos seat of Patriarch until Hagia Sophia opened in 537.
c570 Theotokos damaged in an earthquake and repaired by Justin II.
867-886 after the Iconoclasts were gone, the dome was redone. Lavish redecoration including gold doors.
11th century Gold doors, etc sold to finance resistance to Norman invasion.
1204-1261 Theotokos converted to a cathedral known as Sancta Maria de Cinctur or Holy Mary of the Shingles.
1484 By order of Lala Hayrudin, the church was converted into a mosque, but what was it called?
1755 Vizier Mehmet Said Pasha placed the pulpit in Zeynep Sultan.
1814 The Basilica was called either Sayyid Umar Agha Mosque OR Acem Aga Mescidi Mosque, described as being built next to a fountain.
1936 Derelict and abandoned. It seems to have collapsed and subsumed into the neighborhood.
The only piece that doesn’t fit is that ragged old ruin above the Cistern. I found out what it is, but that’s another post.
A MATTER OF RESPECT
So why, why is this important? It isn’t even my history. I haven’t a drop of Jewish, Greek, or Turkish blood. So what. The history of this place is beyond any one people: it’s the history of the whole world. As a friend says, it’s a matter of respect. Hell, it’s a matter of awe. Seventeen hundred years of toil and care, smoke and love and holy water, men and women in anguish and triumph– it matters. It matters so much that there was a temple here, that there was art here, that there was worship here. Blood of sacrilege, blood of sacrifice, Blood of the Lamb…That high, stone-cool waiting feeling of the streets in the dead quiet of night is from layers and layers of living that all happened here, a concentration of experience. If you say Constantinople over and over, faster and faster, slurring the sounds, it becomes Istanbul. To paraphrase Casablanca, it’s like any other place, only more so. Our parking lots are really cathedrals.
–END GHOST CHURCH
All drawings Plein Air by Trici Venola, ©2000-2014. Early Christian artifacts drawn at the New York Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Archeological Museum in Istanbul, the Archeological Museum in Antalya. For purchase of sketchbooks and other original art, write care of this blog.
Special thanks to Suleyman, custodian of the Last Wall of Theotokos in Chalkoprateia, next to his terrace at Alemdar Restaurant. Their Dervish show is aces. Special thanks to the custodians of St Jacob’s Chapel, who wish to remain anonymous. And thanks to all the Byzantine scholars who have generously made their work readily available, on the Internet, to someone not affiliated with any university. We are none of us much without the others.